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Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition

Overview

Season

Autumn, Winter,Spring

Grade

medium

Duration

30 Days

Amadablam (6,814m) situated at the top above the Imja Khola valley in the Khumbu, just above the summer settlement of Dingboche and on the southeastern area from the village of Pangboche, it is regarded as one of the most beautiful mountains in the whole of Himalaya and probably in the world. The name Ama Dablam is derived from the Tibetan language meaning Mother with a Jewel Box, one can make it out if carefully observed from its southwestern face just near the neck of the peak a large chunk of ice lies dangling like a small jewel box. It is becoming popular among the hardy mountaineers to summit this beautiful peak, which is much technical from either side of this mountain, perched near the Imjatse Valley and Panch Pokhari region.

Ama Dablam is one of the most stunning peaks in the Himalaya. Situated in the heart of Everest’s Kumbu region, it lies next to the well-worn path to Everest Base Camp and is admired by thousands of trekkers and climbers every year. This expedition offers a superb climbing experience in a magnificent setting, with numerous cultural and scenic diversions. The mountain’s impressive beauty has made it a highly coveted prize for climbers. Since its first ascent 1961 by and Anglo-American New Zealand team, it has been climbed frequently and by many different routes.

Our route will be by the original southwest Ridge. This gives a superb climb, sustained at a reasonable level of difficulty and with good camp platforms at strategic points along the route. Apart from one short section, it is objectively very safe. A route description is included in the detail.

The adventure starts from Lukla after a spectacular mountain flight from Kathmandu.
Making way first to Namche Bazaar and after two nights here, and then heading towards the off beaten trail to Ama Dablam area.

From Ama Dablam base camp descend along the Imja Khola to Pangboche and make way to Namche Bazaar, passing through Thyangboche. After descending the hill from Namche, follow the Dudh Kosi valley to Lukla where a spectacular mountain flight takes back to Kathmandu after an exciting memorable adventure with Sherpa Mountaineering Expeditions.

“Exhilarating climb on the summit of Island peak, rich Buddhist culture, warm – friendly locals, traditional village, land of world heritage, high alpine valley’s in the shade of giant ‘Mt. Everest’.”

Itinerary

Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition

30 Days – Detailed Itinerary

On arrival in Kathmandu, you are warmly greeted by our Sherpa Mountaineering Expeditions staff at Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA). SME representatives will assist then transfer to respective hotels.

2-3

 

In Kathmandu sightseeing program includes visit of world heritage sites the sacred Hindu temple of Pashupati Nath, the world biggest Stupa; Boudhhanath, known as little Tibet, Swoyambhunath Stupa (monkey temple) located on a hillside one of the oldest religious spot of more than 2,500 years old and historical Kathmandu Durbar Square with unique architectural temple, and the virgin Kumari known as Living Goddess in Basantapur at central Kathmandu. Kathmandu is not only naturally beautiful but it also holds the beauty of incredible Newar people culture with ancient architecture.

4

Moring a super scenic flight of near 35 minutes brings you at Lukla. Lukla airport is also known as Tenzing–Hillary Airport and Luka are assessable either by air or by trek from the old classic route by Jiri or from Arun Valley, from Lukla start our trek to Phakding for an overnight stop.

5

On this day we walk up to the bank of the Dudh Koshi River and cross the suspension bridge. A few hours of trek will take us to the entrance gate to visit National Park, Monjo. We further walk for a few hours to reach Namche. Namche is a prosperous trading town and the capital of the Khumbu Region with many Nepalese officials, ATMs, Internet cafes, shops, restaurants, a police check, post, and a bank, a bakery and a colorful market each Friday evening and Saturday. You can buy your essential climbing equipment and other stuff here in Namche if needed, overnight at Namche Bazaar.

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Namche is the perfect place for acclimatization. Spending an extra day in Namche helps to acclimatize our body at higher altitudes and avoid the risk of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). Namche is also a mesmerizing market hub where one can explore its vicinity and make further plans for the trip.

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Trek along a gradual trail through conifer and rhododendron forests, somewhat exposed trail with the best views of Ama Dablam. The walk further offers striking views of Mt.Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Thamserku and Kwangde peak. The trail climbs uphill passing through the forests to reach Tyangboche. This area is known as the holy land as the head lama (Rinpoche) of the monastery resides here. This is the place, where climbers take blessing from the high lama in order to have the best and safe expedition.

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Descending gradually through woods, cross the Imja Tse Khola and climb steadily to the village of Pangboche. This is directly opposite of Ama Dablam (6,856 m.), and is a good place to stop by for the lunch and overnight camp overlooking the excellent view of Ama Dablam, Kangtenga and Thermasarkhu, afternoon free for a local hike to the upper village and visit the local old monastery.

9

From the camp descend towards the Imjatse River and cross the small wooden bridge, after the river a steep climb of 40 minutes leads to a large meadow with a couple of Shepard huts. From here the walk is on the gradual uphill path till the base of Ama Dablam is reached. The camp is on the large field beneath the towering majestic peak of Ama Dablam.

10

A good rest day, with an optional hike towards the advance camp with the wonderful views of the surrounding beautiful landscapes

11-22

During these 12-13 days, you will be engrossed dividing the loads and checking your equipment for the final assault.

It is impossible to predict the exact day by day itinerary for this period. The team will be broken down into climbing groups who will work on the mountain for several days before returning for a rest at Base Camp. While one group is pushing out the route and fixing ropes another maybe carrying loads up to higher camps. Ray Delaney climbed the southwest ridge of Ama Dablam with Joe Simpson in April 1990.

His route description is as follows. From Base Camp follow old grassy moraine ridges roughly eastwards to a broad saddle from one can see a Mingbo-La. From the saddle turn north and climb up rocky ground and finally through boulders to the ridge below Pt.5, 705 which is the site of Camp I. There are four or five tent platforms.

From Camp I:
Cross a rocky bowl (tricky if snow-covered) until below two rock fingers, then move on to a ridge proper. Climbing the ridge involves rock climbing of severe standard with steps of VS (USA 5.6) Camp II is at the top yellow tower, which gives one of the hardest pitches on the climb at VS/Hard VS (5.8).

From Camp II:
Skirt a red rock bluff on the east and follow a ramp line to a gray tower. Move into the ramp (some stone fall danger) and climb to an amphitheater. Continue up a broad gully on between the gray tower and the lower rock buttress and climb a snow slope to ‘ Santa’s Grotto’ at the start of the Mushroom Ridge. Possible bivvy site Follow the mushroom ridge to a crevasse in the upper face, which offers another good bivvy site. Climb the snow/ Ice slope to the right of the face, and then follow mixed ground to the top of the highest hanging glacier. An ice crest now leads in a magnificent position to the summit.

Grand Views! We all need to be back at the base camp by Day 21-22. At this point, the porters will arrive for our walkout to Lukla.

23

Today after regaining the energy back after the hard climb, everyone will be engaged cleaning up the base camp and packing. Please take all the dead used or
unused batteries back home.

24

An easy downhill of few hours brings you back to the Imjatse River after the river a short climb towards Pangboche.

25

Leaving Pheriche with grand views of Ama Dablam, Nuptse wall, Lhotse, Makalu and Island peak then head towards the famed Tyangboche with its beautiful monastery and striking scenery views, reaching back at lush vegetation and tree lines after being in arid terrain for a week or more, the final leg of this walk leads to a climb for an hour to Thyangboche offering grand views of peaks that surround this lovely spot with its monastery, a short downhill to Imjatse River after the bridge a steep climb for an hour with gradual winding trail all the way to Namche Bazaar for overnight stop.

26

After Name it’s all downhill to Dudh Kosi River bed and with few short ups to enter the Sagarmatha National park to exit towards Monjo, the last day walk of this great adventure with easy gradual trail through the village of Phakding following the Dudh Kosi, after crossing the bridge at Phakding a nice pleasant trek with few short up and downs to Lukla, on reaching Lukla the last dinner with the trekking staffs and porters.

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The flight time to Kathmandu, are schedule for morning normally, because of the wind in the afternoon, sometime the flight time can be delayed due to bad weather and other reason, depending upon the flight time make way to the terminal for security check, this scenic flight from Lukla takes about 30 minutes to Kathmandu, a panoramic view of the snow-capped peaks can be seen during the flight. Arriving at Kathmandu domestic terminal, our staff will receive and transfer you back to the Hotel.

28-29

A free day in Kathmandu, please inform our staff if you would like to go on another short tour in and around Kathmandu Valley.

Today as per your international flight time, Sherpa Mountaineering Expeditions staff will take you to the airport for your final departure from this amazing country, Nepal.

Trip Inclusions

Trip Inclusions

Everything you need for a comfortable and memorable trek

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Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition

30 Days • No departure dates

No booking fees • Free cancellation up to 60 days