Baruntse stands at an elevation of 7,129 m / 23,370 fit and has become a landmark for mountaineers who has the urge and drams to climb over a 7000 m high. Mt. Baruntse lies in between the lap of two Giants Mountains, Mt. Everest and Mt. Makalu, surrounded by Hinku Glacier on the south, Barun Glacier on the east with Imja-Tse Glacier to the North West. The climb of Mt. Baruntse is less technical than the other 7,000 m peaks but its high altitude is a major concern. Climb to Baruntse is an idle preparation before joining above 8,000 m expeditions. Mt. Baruntse first climbed by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow of New Zealand expedition team led by Sir Edmund Hillary on 30th May 1954 via the southern ridge. Since then many climbers have used this same route and have successfully summited Mt. Baruntse. This adventurous expedition starts from Kathmandu with a short sweeping scenic flight to Lukla; from here the trek to the Baruntse Base Camp 5,300 m (17,380 ft) begins via Chutok, Tangnag, and Khare. After good acclimatization at base camp starts the climb to Mt. Baruntse summit. This expedition leads to establish two more camps beside the base camp, Camp I at 6,100 m / 20,000 ft and Camp II at 6, 400m / 20,980 ft to conquer Mt. Baruntse summit. Before reaching Baruntse for the climb, our program leads to climbing Mera Peak at 6,560 meters the highest trekking in Nepal this will allow the climbers to practice with ice ax, crampons and to acclimatize well before the big climb to the summit of Mt. Baruntse.After a great climb return by the same route to Lukla for the flight back to Kathmandu and homeward bound.
Note:
People with time and for more adventure after the climb of Mt. Baruntse can return back to Lukla via Amphu Laptse pass, Imjatse valley passing Chukung, Thyangboche, Namche Bazaar.
Brief Itinerary:
Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
Day 02-03: In Kathmandu tours and preparation for the expeditions.
Day 04: Fly to Lukla 2,800m 30 mins flight trek to Chutanga 3,430m 04 hrs.
Day 05: Rest day at Chutanga for acclmatisation.
Day 06: Trek to Tuli Kharka 4,300m. 06 hrs.
Day 07: Trek to Mousum Kharka 3,430m 04 hrs.
Day 08: Trek to Tagnag 4,360m 05 hrs.
Day 09: Rest day for acclimatisation.
Day 10: Trek to Khare 5,000m 05 hrs.
Day 11: Trek to Mera Base Camp 5, 300m/17,384 ft 04 hrs
Day 12: Trek and climb to High camp 5,780 m / 18,958 ft 04 hrs
Day 13: Climb to Mera Summit 6,461 m / 21,1907 ft 08 hrs
Day 14: Trek to Khare 04 hrs.
Day 15: Trek to Upper Hongu Valley 5,000m 05 hrs.
Day 16: Trek to Hongu Pokhari 5,000m 05 hrs.
Day 17: Rest day at Hongu Pokhari.
Day 18: Trek to Baruntse Base Camp 5,300m. 05 hrs.
Day 19: Rest day for acclimatization and preparation for the climb.
Day 20-35: Climbing and preparation for the summit of Baruntse.
Day 36: Back at Base Camp.
Day 37: Trek back to Hongu Pokhari 04 hrs.
Day 38: Trek on route Khare 06 hrs.
Day 39: Trek to Kothe 06 hrs.
Day 40: Trek to Tuli Kharka 06 hrs.
Day 41: Trek to Lukla via Zatarwa-La 06 hrs.
Day 42: Fly to Kathmandu.
Day 43: Free day at leisure.
Day 44: Transfer to Airport for the International departure.
Detailed Itinerary:
Day 01: Arrival at Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
On arrival in Kathmandu, you are warmly greeted by our Sherpa Mountaineering Expeditions staff at Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA). SME representatives will assist then transfer to respective hotels.
Day 02: In Kathmandu sightseeing tour.
In Kathmandu sightseeing program includes visit of world heritage sites the sacred Hindu temple of Pashupati Nath, the world biggest Stupa; Boudhhanath, known as little Tibet, Swoyambhunath Stupa (monkey temple) located on a hillside one of the oldest religious spot of more than 2,500 years old and historical Kathmandu Durbar Square with unique architectural temple, and the virgin Kumari known as Living Goddess in Basantapur at central Kathmandu. Kathmandu is not only naturally beautiful but it also holds the beauty of incredible Newar people culture with ancient architecture.
Day 03: Preparation day for expedition.
On this day you can buy your essential equipment, gears, harness, crampons, ice ax with a leash, webbing, cord, trekking poles, sleeping bag, headwear, footwear, and other stuff. Our representative will work on making your necessary permits and papers for the expeditions. There will be a special meeting in the evening regarding our pre-expedition discussion with all our fellow expedition staff.
Day 04: Fly (30 mins) to Lukla 2,800m begin the trek to Chutanga 3,430m. 04 hrs.
Early morning transfer to domestic airport then board in the smaller twin otter or similar plane for the sweeping panoramic flight to Lukla, on arrival you will be received by our trekking guides. In Lukla, you will have time to wander around, while the Sherpa crew sort and divide the load baggage to prepare for this outstanding adventure. First day trek is an easy walk which leads eastwards, the path from here is less frequented than the other main trails from Lukla, walk follows through a number of hamlets and wood yards until we reach a thick forest of silver fir, birch, pines and rhododendron trees, and bushes on the hillside below Nau Lekh also known as Kalo Himal Ridge, on this portion follow the Sherpa or the group as there are many paths leading away from the main trail. There are many small streams with numerous places for camp, the whole of this area referred to as Chutanga which is a summer pasture. Campsite in the wilderness is pitched on the meadows with time for a short walk around.
Day 05: Rest day at Chutanga.
Necessary rest day for acclimatization, before heading to higher region and crossing of Zatrwa-la at 4,600m, a short hike can be done to stretch your leg and muscle walking up to a small peak at around 4,000m below the Zatrwa Teng Pass, which offers excellent views over the valley of Dudh Koshi, and also views of our route towards the Zatrwa-la.
Day 06: Trek to Tuli Kharka 4,300 m 06 hrs.
After a good rest day at Chutanga, the adventure continues with a steep climb to cross the Kalo Himal Ridge in the Nau Lekh range which separates the Khumbu from the Hinku Valley. A steep uphill climb from the camp brings to a cairned notch on the ridge with a collection of Buddhist prayer flags at 4,450m. This small pass is called the Zatrwa Og, from here the path traverses across a boulder slope, round a corner and climbs once again to the Zatrwa-La at 4,600meteres. In bad weather to find the path of our route can be quite misleading care should be taken, in fine weather, the view across the Dudh Kosi towards Karyolung and the Lumding Himal are very impressive, and the scenery across the rolling foothills of the Hinku Valley. From here less than hour descends will bring to a large boulder which will be the campsite for the overnight at Tuli Kharka.
Day 07: Trek to Mousum Kharka 3,430m 04 hrs.
After camp at Tuli Kharka, a short trek on the downhill slope, the path descends with superb scenery of Peak 43 and Kusum Kanguru and then coming to a fine vantage point of the Hinku Valley, with grand views of the South Face of Mera Peak entering the forest once again, the trail drops steeply into the Hinku Valley.
A pleasant walk leads through the forest full of tall Himalayan pine and rhododendron trees, camp on the clearing known as Mosum Kharka by the Hinku Drangka River.
Day 08: Trek to Tagnag 4,360m 05 hrs.
From Museum Kharka, route follows the west bank of the Hinku Drangka northwards, eventually leaving the forest, the valley widens and opens, coming to a pasture and small kharkas (a shade of the Shepard’s) then the path leads to a small bridge to reach at Gondishung at 4,350m, a summer settlement of Tagnag with its huts and stonewalled enclosures. Gondishung itself has a fascinating 200-year-old gompa (monastery) beneath a great rock overhang. Trek continues for another hour passing beyond Lungsamba as the valley narrows between the flanks of Kusum Kanguru 6,369m to the west and the truncated far western peak of Mera 6,255m then finishing our today’s walk here at Tagnag, a settlement made by the yak herders. Nowadays there are several tea houses here to cater to the needs of the local staff and porters who accompany Mera expeditions and beyond. Here we will have three nights camping in this beautiful surroundings.
Day 09: Rest day for acclimatization.
A rest day for acclimatization and local hike in this wonderful setting, surrounded by stunning peaks, especially Peak 43 which rises to 6,769m altitude.
Just north from the camp there is a huge moraine behind which is dammed a beautiful glacial lake known as the Sabai Tsho, into which plummets the hanging Sabai Glacier well worth exploring with time spent will help you to acclimatize well.
Day 10: Trek to Khare 5,000m 05 hrs.
After a great time at Tagnag, today’s destination is a short day walk of 3-4 hours but take it slowly acclimatizing and enjoying the surrounding scenery. Route follows a relatively good trail leading up across the moraine which dams the Charpatti Tal and then reaching a high point lined with cairns overlooking the glacial lake after more than half an hour climb. From here the path descends slightly before touring the ridge and crossing a sandy bowl to the steep stream that descends from Dig Kharka, proceed on the right bank until after 45 minutes then reach the large pasture of Dig Kharka, here cross the stream with the help of stepping stones towards the walls of an old shelter, after Dig Kharka, walk leads to a steep climb for few minutes, passing a large bivouac stone and then contouring around the hillside reaching the stream once again. Re-cross the stream at obvious spots on large boulders. Following a trial for more than an hour across the boulder-strewn hillside, reaching Khare for the overnight.
Day 11: Trek to Mera Base Camp 5, 300m/17,384 ft 04 hrs
Today we follow the trail that first ascends up to Mera Glacier, and walks straight on ice around half an hour. We then make a gentle descend to reach Base Camp. Your guide will give you every detail regarding the climbing on this day. Overnight at Mera Base Camp
Day 12: Trek and climb to High camp 5,780 m / 18,958 ft 04 hrs
Leaving base camp we head for high camp, cross Mera La to reach the Mera High Camp today. Upon reaching High camp we set up a high camp for overnight spend. We can have a marvelous view of Mt. Everest, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and south face of Lotshe, Nuptse, Chamlang and Baruntse from high camp.
Day 13: Climb to Mera Summit 6,461 m / 21,1907 ft 08 hrs
We start our climb early in the morning after packing all our climbing stuff. The guides will fix a rope wherever necessary. You can enjoy success and brave to get a summit and dramatic mountain views. After spending some time in the summit we descend along the same route, down to base camp.
Day 14: Trek to Khare 04 hrs.
On this day we trek back to Khare by following the trail that walks along the lateral moraine of the Dig Glacier. After a few hours of trek, we reach to Khare where we stop for the night.
Day 15: Trek to Upper Hongu Valley 5,000m 05 hrs.
After completing the first part of the adventure, continue to traverse into the main section of the Hongu Valley, passing small col with superb views of Chamling, Makalu, and Baruntse. From the last col descend for two hours to a nice spot for lunch beside the Hongu Drangka, under the west face of Chamlang. After a break here walking below Chamlang, and gradually climbing into the Upper Hongu Valley the walk from here is dominated by views of Lhotse and Everest, after two hours of the good hard walk leads to a grassy flat slope campsite near some moraine hills.
Day 16: Trek to Hongu Pokhari 5,000m 05 hrs.
Trek at first follows a gradual climb to a steep moraine and rocky glacier, then leading towards old and more recent moraine deposits, we reach Hongu Pokhari and make our camp near to the pond.
Day 17: Rest day at Hongu Pokhari.
Another rest day which gives a break to pull back the strength back for the final assault to the last challenging climb to Baruntse, either relaxing or for the energetic people there is an opportunity to climb smaller hills behind the camp for the excellent views of the Hinku Glacier and the Mingbo-la.
Day 18: Trek to Baruntse Base Camp 5,300m.
After a hearty breakfast trek to Baruntse Base Camp, cross the wide valley scattered with small rocks. The walk offers spectacular mountain scenery of high Himalaya. A few hours of walk brings us to Baruntse Base Camp where we stop for the night and make our further plans regarding our expedition.
Day 19: Rest day for acclimatization and preparation for the climb.
This day for acclimatization and preparations for the climb, guide or leader will teach you some climbing techniques and skills. He will share all his knowledge with you all. And if you have any queries and confusion then, please do not hesitate to ask your guide. In case of any problem, let our team know so that they can take necessary steps further. We make our final preparation for the climb on this day.
Day 20-35: Climbing and preparation for the summit of Baruntse.
We may have to stay at the base camp until we have good weather conditions as the weather around the high Himalayas is unpredictable. We have to be mentally strong and start ascending to Camp 1 which is set up just below the East Col at an altitude of 5,700 m (18,700 ft). Ascending to the summit is less difficult than climbing down. Camp 2 is situated at the elevation of 6,420 m (21,063 ft) on the southeast ridge and from here we need to put an oxygen mask to reach the summit. We cross these two camps after spending couples of the night depending on weather conditions to conquer the summit. We spend some moments at the summit enjoying the panoramic view of high Himalaya range and make our gentle descend. Descending is technically more difficult than ascending to the summit However it not as much difficult as Everest but you might face significant challenges like a low level of temperature and low atmospheric pressure because of high altitude. That’s why we need to have good preparation and perfect weather condition for the climb. Then continue descending to the base camp these two camps where we spend our night at tented camp.
Day 36: Back at Base Camp.
An extra day to re-group and organize the camping and climbing equipment and to clean up the rubbish, picking up everything that has been brought leaving nothing except your footprints behind. Himalaya region has thousands of treks and summit attempts every year. As a result, piles of unwanted trash exist in the Himalaya. Our effort will be reducing the pollution around as we do have some responsibility towards nature. So we clean up the base camp which will be our help reducing the impacts of global warming. We pack up our necessary stuff and prepare to return.
Day 37: Trek back to Hongu Pokhari.
The walk back will be more or less on the same path most of the way to Hongu Pokhari or beyond depending upon the time, availability of water and camping site.
Day 38: Trek on route Khare 06 hrs.
The route back involves a climb over the Mere-la and slowly descending towards to the overnight camp at Khare.
Day 39: Trek to Kothe 06 hrs.
The journey follows the same way back to Kothe and beyond till Lukla.
Day 40: Trek to Tuli Kharka 06 hrs.
Retrace the journey back to Tuli Kharka and good to be back to the tree lines and greenery.
Day 41: Trek to Lukla via Zatarwa-La 06 hrs.
The way back before Chutanga leads to a long climb over the Zatarwa-la and to a steep downhill towards the grassy meadow of Chutanga from here the walk is more or less gradual to Lukla.
Day 42: Fly to Kathmandu and transfer to the hotel.
The flight time to Kathmandu, are schedule for morning normally, because of the wind in the afternoon, sometime the flight time can be delayed due to bad weather and other reason, depending upon the flight time make way to the terminal for security check, this scenic flight from Lukla takes about 30 minutes to Kathmandu, a panoramic view of the snow-capped peaks can be seen during the flight. Arriving at Kathmandu’s domestic terminal, our staff will receive and transfer you back to the Hotel.
Day 43: Free day at leisure.
A free day in Kathmandu, please inform our staff if you would like to go on another short tour in and around Kathmandu Valley.
Day 44: Transfer to airport for international departure.
Today as per your international flight time, keep your confirmed air ticket, and your passport handy. Our staff will take you to the airport for your final departure from this amazing country, Nepal.
Cost Include
- 5 nights 3-star standard hotels in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast
- Expedition permit fee
- Government Liaison officer
- Complete camping equipment for trekking & base camp, and above
- Satellite phone on the payable basis (per minute $ 5).
- Food during trekking and Base Camp and above Base camp high altitude food for Member & Staff, different verity nutrition and hygienic.
- High altitude cooking stove and gas.
- Conservation / conservation fee
- High Altitude Sherpa every 2 members1 IFMGA certified mountain guides as a group leader.
- Base Camp to Advance Base Camp each member get 1 tent above advance camp, 2 members get 1 tent Sherpa mountaineering to provide North Face or same qualities tent.
- Dining tent, Table, Chairs, Toilet tent, Mess tent, and Kitchen tent
- Above mention staffs daily wages, equipment allowance climbing bonus& Insurance,
- Porters to/from the Base camp to carry food and fuel, members climbing gears, and all Base camp equipment.
- Porters return from Base Camp carry per member including food & equipment.
- All ground transportation as per itinerary.
- Radio walkie talkie each climbing member has 1 radio set guide and Sherpa as well.
- Garbage deposit.
Cost excludes
- Air travel to and from Kathmandu.
- Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
- Laundry, postage, telephone calls, and all other items of personal nature.
- Entry visa and Re-entry visa for Nepal.
- International departure tax.
- Personal Expenses.
- Medical and rescue insurance.
- Personal Climbing equipment.
- Bar bills & beverages.
- Helicopter Rescue Charge
- Medicine and first aid expenses